Harushika Junmai Ginjo Namazake "Shiboribana"
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The texture is lightly fizzy, silky, but also gently weighted with a rich core of umami. The finish is long-lasting, with notes of pfeffernusse and tea sweets.
Opening up dramatically in the first 48 hours, Shiboribana-- a portmanteau of shibori (press/wring) and hana (flower)-- is a bright, Kansai rendition of Nanbu Toji technique. The Nanbu Toji of Iwate are famous for their cold-temp fermentations, resulting in citrusy yet restrained aromatics, light body, and powdery soft sweetness. The Southern, Kansai aspect becomes apparent in the use of Fukunohana rice, a rare Hyogo variety. Fukunohana was popular inthe 1980’s, but it’s too soft-- it dissolves in the mash very easily-- which makes
truly light, crisp sake impossible to achieve, but also results in rich body even when young. “The taste can also change depending on the time of preparation for brewing it, something that I find particularly fascinating,” said Kitao-san of Ota Shuzo.
Brewery: Imanishi Seibee Shoten, 今西清兵衛商店
Brand: Harushika, 春鹿
Location: Nara city, Nara prefecture
Rice: Fukunohana (Hyogo)
Rice Polish: 60%
Yeast: Harushika House #7 (proprietary)
SMV: -3
Acidity: 1.4
Alcohol: 16%
Nara style is historically synonymous with “nanto morohaku” brewing, the process of using polished koji and polished brewing rice from the southern capital to make sake, dating back to the Azuchi-Momoyama period. Mindful of their roots, the Imanishi family keeps the history of nanto morohaku at the heart of their business, with the motto "polish the rice, polish the water, polish your skills, and polish your heart.” Their shop and tasting room is housed in a historic Edo period building that served as the original brewing space, and is-- unlike most breweries-- known by visitors to Japan, as it is walking distance
from the famous Nara Deer Park. The grounds also include the former Imanishi estate turned tea house, a Muromachi era Shoin-zukuri style house and Important Cultural Property. To be expected for a Nara brewery, the Harushika brand translates to “Spring Deer”, who have been famous in Nara for centuries. In Japanese
mythology, Takemikazuchi no Mikoto, the chief deity enshrined in Kasuga Taisha Shrine, rode to Mt. Mikasa in Nara when it was established in 768 AD on the back of a white deer. Thanks to their role in Shinto lore as messengers of
the gods, the sika deer of Nara have even developed their own unique genetic lineage. Sacred status and a 1,400 year ban on hunting has preserved this ancestral relationship, and now they are friendly and sweet, just like the brewery’s sake!
Despite the use of mellow #7 yeast, the nose is Very Ginjo: strawberry, melon, fresh mochi dusted with rice flour. The palate stays playful with strawberry orpineapple mint, honeydew mochi, Mexican wedding cookies. I feel the “hana” in the name: like an early blooming flower with big soft petals that tease spring. Anything mint: a minty eggplant babaghanoush, a hefty dollop of mint yogurt, Spring peas and favas with mint, is a great place to start. Pairs lovely with feta cheese, which emphasizes the sweet fruit. Would be just fabulous with a fruit, herb and feta salad: strawberries, watermelon, grilled peaches, fennel fronds and mint. Floral peppers like sansho, shichimi togarashi, and fresh ground white or pink peppercorns dusted on carpaccio with lemon and a little herb salad. Or a nice big bowl of fresh guacamole with lots of herbs and tons of lime.
Warmed gently to 120 is real nice, too!
