Kidoizumi Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Yamahai Yamadanishiki "Gold Label"
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Notes of salted goat caramel, roasted sweet potato with butter, burnt sugar, dried shiitake mushroom, miso and sweet shoyu. Bright acidic tones of Chinese black vinegar dance next to comforting aromas of nilla wafer, membrillo, and milk chocolate.
The truth is, this sake came to market about two years ago and I wasn't feeling it. There was this plastic, chlorinated note that sometimes affects namazake and in this case it was really strong. So I ignored it a while, and revisited once it had some time to chill out. Wow! What an incredible difference. 2021 Gold Label is rested and ready to party.
Brewery: Kidoizumi Shuzo
Japanese name: 木戸泉酒造
Prefecture: Chiba
Rice: Yamadanishiki (Saitama, organic)
Polishing: 60%
Grade: Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu
Starter: proprietary Hot Yamahai method
Water: hard
ABV: 18%
Brewery website: https://www.kidoizumi.jp/en/about/
Chiba prefecture lies between Tokyo Bay and the Pacific Ocean, a verdant area traditionally known for prolific farming. The Kuroshio (“black salt”) current flows around Chiba’s shores, which keeps it relatively warmer in winter and cooler in summer than neighboring Tokyo.
Kidoizumi was founded in 1879, and is currently run by the fifth generation owner-toji of the Shoji family, Hayato Shoji. It is the only brewery in Japan that uses the Hot-Yamahai method, developed by Hayato’s grandfather in the 1950s. In a traditional yamahai sake the starter of the sake is left exposed to the air for several days to naturally develop lactic acid, and needs cool temperatures to avoid getting contaminated by unwanted bacteria. Despite its location in relatively warm Chiba, Kidoizumi developed a method where large amounts of lactic acid producing bacteria are cultivated on the premises are added to a starter kept at very high temperature.
The result is a unique full bodied, multi-layered taste which is completely unique to their brewery. Their namazake (unpasteurized sake) has a unique combination of acidity and sweetness, complex floral notes and a rich mouthfeel. Because of the unique method of production, it is a very stable sake once opened. It pairs excellently with bold flavors and has a special magic with grilled meats.
In addition Kidoizumi are proud to use locally grown rice that meets their standards, embracing traditional growing techniques and banning the use of chemical fertilizers. They were one of the first pioneers for the organic movement in Japan, skirting the rules during the decades when the government controlled all rice sales and production methods. We like their rebellious spirit and are glad they applied it to sake making!
Good gravy, this is a beast that needs something equally powerful to pair!
Cured meats (especially pork), pizza, demi glace, blue and aged cheese, tarragon and nettle soup, morilles farcis or shiitake veloute.
It's very difficult to draw comparisons, but if I were to hazard a recommendation, look to tokaj szamorodni, sercial madeira or oloroso sherry pairings for further inspiration.
