95. Kameman Junmai Genmai-zake / Genmaishu
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Sake made from 100% unpolished brown rice is a true rarity! Kameman takes great care to select rice that is grown without the use of pesticides, since the character of the whole grain will be expressed in the final product. Brewing a brown rice sake is no simple feat- Hananishiki rice (Kumamoto's flagship sakamai) is gently crushed, rather than polished, so the koji can penetrate the starch core. Soaking and steaming takes twice as long, and additions are made very carefully by the toji to keep the fermentation on track. The sake is aged at the brewery before release.
The nose on this reads like a lighter koshu- the classic notes of caramel and dried fruit hit right away. But the first sip shows this is truly its own thing. I get notes of stone roasted Japanese sweet potatoes, shochu lees, short crust, whole grain biscuit kit kats, dark brown sugar, buckwheat flower honey, sorghum syrup, baekseju...I could go on. Lovely chilled, and gently warmed to nurukan (~40°C), but I find that it really shines at room temperature in a snifter.
Kameman Shuzo, 亀萬酒造
Location: Tsunagi, Kumamoto Prefecture
Rice: Nikomaru
Polish: 100% (brown rice)
Yeast: Kumamoto yeast
Kameman was established by Chinju Takeda, who took the rice he received as payment for medical services and began making sake in 1916. Now, a little more than a century later, the brewery is headed by 3rd generation director Shuichi Takeda and his son, 4th generation director Ryusuke Takeda.
Ryusuke recently took over as toji after training in Tochigi prefecture, updating the brewery's model from the old toji/migrant brewer system.
On the savory side, I want to go meaty, unctuous and saucy- yakiniku, yakitori, Southern BBQ. The caramel-y richness of the brown rice is a great foil for Szechuan hot pot. Also would be a great digestif sipped room temp with a little salted caramel ice cream or some dark chocolate.
