Chikuma Nishiki Junmai Ginjo "Kizan Sanban"
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Each brewing season Chikuma Nishiki make two tanks of ‘Kizan’. One tank becomes a pasteurised version (known as Hiire) and the other is unpasteurised or Nama. This is the Nama version and is called ‘Kizan Sanban’. This is also Genshu (undiluted) and normally a Genshu Sake would have an alcohol level of 17-20%, but the Kizan Sanban is only 15%. This is achieved by stopping the fermentation a few days before it would normally finish to naturally retain a slightly higher sugar content, which therefore also reduces the alcohol.
The water in Nagano is well known for its purity and Sake produced in the region tend to be higher in acidity. The residual sugar in the Kizan Sanban combined with this refreshing acidity creates a smooth rounded palate with flavors of pear, apple and fennel. Many Ginjo Sake in the market tend to offer predominately aroma with very little flavour profile, however Kizan Sanban is virtually the opposite of this with its rich, round palate and balanced acidity, yet with a very ‘Ginjo’ aromatic intensity. Super delicious!!
Chikumanishiki Shuzo, 千曲錦酒造
Location: Saku City, Nagano
Style: Muroka Nama Genshu (unfined, unpasteurized, undiluted)
Rice: Miyama Nishiki (Nagano)
Polishing: 55%
ABV: 15%
Yeast: Undisclosed
Established 1681, a fascinating story underlies Chikumanishiki’s founding. During the Warring States Period (mid-1500s), five famously bloody battles--among "the most cherished tales in Japanese military history"--took place at Kawanakajima over control
of the greater Nagano region. During these battles, samurai Hara Torayoshi saved the life of daimyo Takeda Shingen by spearing the enemy daimyo’s mount and driving him off. For his valiant effort, Hara was awarded land by the Takeda clan. This scene is immortalized in a woodblock print by late 1800s artist Toyohara Chikanobu!
Skipping ahead to 1681, a descendant of Torayoshi founded Yoshida-ya sake brewery. Enjoying success as a beloved local kura for centuries, Yoshida-ya eventually rebranded as Chikuma Nishiki Shuzo.
Situated at 700m, Chikuma Nishiki is surrounded by the Asama and Yatsugatake mountain ranges, carved out by the Chikuma River. Harsh winters (as low as-10°C!)that encourage smooth fermentation, good
water, crisp mountain air and Nagano’s famous rice, offer the perfect setting for sake brewing. Chikuma Nishiki owes their distinct house flavor to the mineral-rich profile of their well water.
(From our Summer 2024 seasonal club write-up)
The round sweetness of Kizan contrasted with the high acidity makes it an excellent foil for sweet seafood: it brought a fresh crab, watercress, and kumquat salad to life, and sang alongside scallop crudo with yuzu kosho, apple, and fennel. Aussie somm Jane Lopes mixes it with dry riesling for an abalone-seaweed course pairing. Honey drizzled cheese, creamy coconut based curries, and olive oil cake round things out!
