Tsuki no Katsura Junmai "Iwai 88"
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Masuda Tokubee contracts directly with Fushimi based farmers for the Iwai rice used in this sake. They've chosen to only minimally polish the rice down to 88%, to preserve the distinct umami and sweetness Iwai has to offer. This sake is made with the tomizu method, meaning 10 parts water to rice instead of the modern recipe of 12 parts, resulting in a dense, full bodied brew that highlights Iwai's equally full character. Iwai 88 is the updated take on Tsuki no Katsura's Iwai Junmai, which boasted slightly more polish (80%), and a crisp astringency. This new take feels more modern- bolder in its expression of sweet and savory.
As we transition out of Summer, waking up to cooler mornings, but still getting occasionally blasted with 90°F heat, Iwai 88 is reminding me of all there is to look forward to in Fall. I get notes of maduros (fried sweet plantains), Tahitian vanilla, Portuguese egg tarts, and short bread. Gently warmed, the dim sum dessert cart vibes give way to a gentle, dashi-like umami. A food sake, if I ever met one. I look forward to bringing it out for this year's nabes and odens. -Molly
Masuda Tokubee Shoten, 株式会社増田德兵衛商店
Prefecture: Kyoto (Fushimi)
Rice: Iwai (Kyoto, organically farmed)
Polishing: 88%
Yeast: Kyo no Hana Kobo
ABV: 16%
SMV: +5
Acidity: 1.7
Water: brewery groundwater, moderately soft, Fushimi Kyoto
Tsuki no Katsura is a famous, historic brewery with relatively small, local production, utilizing old methods. There are many releases that can only be purchased from the brewery or local restaurants they’ve maintained century-long relationships with. This Kyoto longevity is evident in their brand and style.
Kyoto has a reputation for being exclusive: for instance, after the brewery Tamano Hikari moved from Nara to Kyoto, they weren’t able to sell their sake locally for over 50 years– it all had to be sold outside of Kyoto, because locals wouldn't accept it as their own. In contrast, Masuda Tokubee Shoten, the brewery that sells the Tsuki no Katsura brand, has been domiciled in Kyoto since 1675 and is deeply, thoroughly entrenched in Kyoto culture.
For almost 200 years of the brewery’s life, the Japanese imperial palace was located in Kyoto city. This imperial presence influenced the regional culture, standard of craftsmanship, types of entertainment and industry, quality of cuisine, and so on. The need to serve a royal and noble standard has long been a part of Kyoto’s heritage. To me, Tsuki no Katsura carries a signature of ageless elegance: hidden complexity, seasonal character, commitment to tradition, and subtlety-- much like the city itself.
To dive deeper, have a listen at this English- language interview with the upcoming successor of the company,
https://sakeonair.com/2023/12/28/becoming-a-kuramoto-with-junichi-masuda-of-tsukinokatsura/
The brewery recommends playing Iwai 88's deep savoriness off dashi based dishes, nimono (think root veggies simmered in sake, mirin and soy sauce), and grilled fish and meat.
68.75