Terada Honke "Katori 90" Junmai Kimoto Muroka Nama Genshu 2023
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Any discussion of Terada Honke has to be prefaced with an explanation of this brewery's philosophy, which is one-of-a-kind in the sake world: totally committed to sustainable (even rejuvenative) farming practices, including the nutritional value of microorganisms and whole grain rice.
Katori 90, like all year-round, native yeast fermented sake, varies tremendously from batch to batch. As a 2023 Winter bottling, this round of Katori 90 is much fresher, fruitier than the previous, which landed in November 2021. The cold weather during fermentation and bottling prevented bacterial growth and encouraged the strongest yeasts to survive. The result is a very lovely Katori 90.
Brewery: Terada Honke
Location: Chiba
Rice: Koshihikari table rice (Chiba, organic), Yukigesho (organic)
Polishing: 90%
Yeast: Natural
Starter: Kimoto
ABV: 21%
Established in 1673, Terada Honke have been brewing continuously for over 345 years. They are purveyors of only natural yeast brewing, working almost exclusively with traditional Kimoto & Yamahai starter methods. This Daigo no Shizuku is a very unique Sake. It is produced using the Bodaimoto method, which is known as a ‘pre-modern’ method of creating Sake, first originating from a temple in Nara. The resultant Sake is wildly different from many, with a full body showing sweet fruit and a pickled ume & citrus character. It’s acidity is lively and refreshing.
*Bodai-moto is a starter method created by combining raw polished rice, a small amount of cooked rice and water and incubated for anywhere from three - ten days. During this time lactic bacteria falls into the mixture and the liquid becomes sour water. After this time frame the raw rice is taken away and steamed before being returning to the sour water. Then an addition of Koji rice is added (in Terada Honke’s case around 40% of the volume of raw rice). Then fermentation by natural yeast takes just two weeks. Then just a simply gentle pressing in a ‘Fune’ or horizontal press before being bottled.
In the past, I've seen fireworks pairing this sake with sweet potato tacos doused in smoky salsa. The low degree of polishing--only 10% of the rice removed-- means high umami, rich, almost tannic texture, and fantastic complexity. This is as far as we get from the calculated daiginjo of Dassai.