Kuheiji Junmai Daiginjo "Betsu Atsurae" 2022

Classic Kuheiji. Elegant, even understated on the nose, but overdelivering on the palate, much like a great chablis opening up from its rest in bottle. This particular Yamadanishiki junmai daiginjo is characterized numerically by 35% polish, and stylistically by its emphasis on umami and acidity. It is aged a minimum of one year before release. As of 2024, 2022 is the most current vintage available.

I sense elevated acidity with fresh citrus notes: lime leaf, orange fizz, and a tart lactic note reminiscent of kefir. Pure and crystalline-- lean and ephemeral, but with a long and haunting finish. Significantly lighter and more delicate than the entry level Eau de Desir, but clearly of the same mind.

From the Kuheiji website ([adjustments added for clarity])

"One of the three versions of [Kuheiji] Yamadanishiki sake polished past 50 percent, [which is] the [threshold] beyond which notes of toasted undergrowth cereals and mushrooms are erased in favor of great freshness. Tertiary ([aging]) aromas will also take a special [direction] toward white pepper or anise.
[Yamadanishiki] rice offers unlimited possibilities due to its ability to be highly polished. Like a diamond whose complexity reveals itself as you get closer to its heart.
35 percent is the stage where the rice umami still expresses itself, with taut acidity, which explains the fiery feeling in the mouth from the start.
The residual sugar content has been deliberately reduced, which gives the sake a great clarity.
If sake [generally plays a supporting role against] the dishes it accompanies, [Betsu Atsurae instead] competes with the food, therefore requiring an equally robust pairing such as fatty meat or rich caviar."