Akishika Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu "Okushika" 2018
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Akishika's flagship, a junmai brewed from organic rice and aged a minimum of 3 years (usually a while longer-- the current release is 2018) in mountainous inland Osaka, about 45 minutes outside of Kyoto.
Wonderful complexity-- playing in contrasts of warm spice (nutmeg! star anise! root beer!), toasted hazelnut, parmesan, Mexican cocoa, pear butter, birch bark and Chanel No. 5. Is it elegant? Is it deeply rooted in the earth? Do you sit and contemplate it, daub a bit on your wrists, or drink it? I'm not sure there's a right answer.
With a texture of velour, the comfort of a weighted blanket and a persistent finish... Okushika is really a marvel and a work of art.
Location: Nose, Osaka
Style: Junmai Yamahai Muroka Nama Genshu (aged- 2018)
Rice: Yamadanishiki (local, organic)
Polishing: 70%
Starter method: Yamahai
Water: Hard, well water
SMV: +5
Acidity: 2.0
ABV: 18%
Most sake brewers buy their rice – some from contracted farmers, most from unknown sources. “From our own fields to bottle” is the motto of Akishika Shuzō, where 6th-generation kuramoto Oku Hiroaki made a decision to take the brewery as close as it gets to being self-sustained for rice production.
At present, the brewery farms 25 hectares of biodynamically grown rice, sacrificing high yields for superior quality and taste. Breaking with the production methods of postwar Japan and going against the trend of the time, Oku-san was one of the initial pioneers of junmaishu, sake made without any additives; and in 2009, he achieved the goal of the brewery’s entire production being made that way. Akishika ages a big part of their production until it reaches perfect drinking condition, allowing them to offer an unrivaled variety of matured sake.
Using their unique fermentation method of dissolving a very high portion of the fermentation rice into the brew while maintaining low amino acid levels, Akishika’s sake is medium-bodied yet very flavorful, complex, and layered.
I enjoyed Okushika with a vegan cheese plate (including lots of miso-rich, aged and umami-dense cashew cheeses) w fig paste, beef and burdock nabe, oden leftovers (so good) & miso keema curry (also, so good). Think deep flavors, lots of umami & lots of salt.
