Gokyo 5 Blue Kioke Zukuri Kimoto Nama Junmai
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A max-voltage array of tropical zebra stripe, Rambler seltzer, and fermenty-wild essence of buttermilk, offset with a deep "sake" taste that is unmistakably old school. Juicy, vivid, acidic, tropical, and very much alive, this sake is a brilliant testament to the creativity and skill of Gokyo’s team. It's giving me Aram*sa vibes, as if it were a fun, funky, locals-only Southern version of the hypebeast Northern brewery, and I say that with utmost respect.
The Gokyo 5 series are expressions of sake brewed in kioke: that is, traditional
large wooden barrels of 1-5000 L capacity, made from sugi (cryptomeria) wood.
Utilized for >100 years in some cases, kioke don’t usually confer wood flavors (as
in oak barrels), but do add unique character by hosting a unique microbial
population in the pores of the wood & supplying oxygen during the fermentation.
By preparing Blue with the ~350 year old kimoto method which utilizes wild
bacteria to create acidity, Gokyo’s kioke evolve, and in turn, the “5” series as well.
Sakai Shuzo, 酒井酒造
Location: Yamaguchi Prefecture
Rice: Yamadanishiki (Yamaguchi)
Polish: 60%
Yeast: Kumamoto KA4 (A variant of #901)
SMV: +5.5
Acidity: 2.0
ABV: 15.5%
Other: Kioke fermented, yon-dan jikomi, ultra-soft
Nishiki R. well water from 10, 30, & 40m depths
Founded in 1871, and formally established in 1950, Sakai Shuzo has been brewing in the same location by the Nishiki River for 150 years. A brewery exclusively staffed by Yamaguchi natives, locally sourced rice and soft water, kioke barrels made from local trees, and even distilled alcohol for futsushuu made from local rice- Sakai is Yamaguchi jizake through and through. From brewery President Sakai Hideki himself, “Everything that we are, everything that we have, comes from the local community. They are our customers, and our suppliers. We make the best we can for them, and they repay us by buying and enjoying our sake.” And in a prefecture known for breweries that reach global audiences, Sakai is proud to sell the vast majority of their product to the local market.
The Gokyo brand is named after the iconic Kintai bridge that spans Nishikigawa- a local treasure and popular tourist spot for cherry blossom and autumn foliage viewing since its construction in 1673.
It’s so good you’ll probably just drink it all before dinner, but if you pair, know that delicate cuisine can get lost. A test batch of karaage with sansho pepper & lemon was absolutely brilliant. Working with the fat & salt angle, classic broiled mackerel w/ lemon and a big side of soy sauce-laden fresh grated daikon, or korean fried chicken/ cauliflower. Pop it out for lazy sipping, or the same meals you’d want a tiki drink.
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