Ryusei Junmai Ginjo Kimoto Nama Genshu Natsuzake "Ryofu"
- In stock, ready to ship
In kuramoto Fujii’s writing, it's clear he is deeply driven to communicate the senses and
emotions of growing up in a town nestled between ocean and mountain, raised among
windy rice fields and clouds of steam floating through the old brewery. There is a tension between childish notes of pink chewing gum and an exuberant greenness, like a field of chervil or standing in a muddy rice field. I get hints of juicy tangerine, and something sophisticated it's difficult to put my finger on...like a crisp apple cut with a sushi knife, something gentle and easy but also honed-in and intentional.
As new kuramoto Fujii-san experiments with the brewery’s methodology, including its approach to natsuzake (like many others, they are leaning toward single pasteurization instead of nama-nama) quieter, more philosophical updates like ambient yeast and kimoto wild bacterial starters are being incorporated into classic products like Ryofu (涼風- cool breeze). Yeast for one has an enormous bearing on flavor profile: you want banana notes? Ferment #7 at moderate temps. Strawberry, melon and fennel? #1801 at cold temps. It’s impressive to me that Ryusei relinquished this control when natsuzake is often so aromatic and fruity-- so designed, so planned.
[Summer '25 4pk + 2pk club selection]
From the brewer:
Taking advantage of the elegance and delicacy of Yamada Nishiki, it is a summer-only raw sake with a refreshing acidity and gentle umami. I finished it with a cool and transparent flavor profile that fits well even in the hot season. The fragrance is gentle and refreshing, reminding me of citrus. The supple acid that nurtures the soft water of Takehara gently supports the contours of the taste. The aroma is modest and refreshing, and when cooled, the sharpness and lightness stands out; as the temperature rises, the sweetness and umami broaden. It is a classic summer sake that gently soothes a waning appetite.
Fujii Shuzo, 藤井酒造
Established 1863
Location: Takehara, Hiroshima
Rice: Yamada Nishiki
Polishing: 60%
Starter: wild/ kimoto
Yeast: Ambient kura yeast
Water: Takehara ground water (soft)
ABV: 15%
When junmai was prohibited during WW2 in favor of reduced-rice sanzoshu, the Fujii family elected to close the brewery doors rather than compromise on quality. Though they brewed exclusively with kimoto method prior to the war, when the 5th gen owner reopened ~30 years later he switched to the stable and efficient sokujo method. The last three years have brought major change to Fujii Shuzo, reconnecting to this past. In 2023, a new toji, a recommitment to kimoto, the isolation of house yeasts and embracing ambient yeast. In 2024, a new president: 6th gen Fujii Yoshihiro, who sees this as an opportunity to return to Ryusei’s roots. As of this year, association yeasts & lactic acid have been discontinued to “[leave] room in the sake brewing process where humans cannot intervene.” Yoshihiro writes extensively about this process, his thoughts, experiments and philosophy, on his blog: refreshing visibility in an otherwise obtuse industry.
Served chilled, the acidic sharpness stands out; at room temperature, the gentle broad body of the sake is enhanced.
It goes well with dishes with a cool feeling, such as vinegared food, nanban pickles, cold pasta and somen noodles.
69 YPR: Excellent
