Tsukinokatsura "Heian-Kyo" Junmai Daiginjo

The most utterly tender creme catalan-- not as heavy as a creme brulee, just as flavorful and tender-- or the fluffiest sabayon, with dancing herbal muses of wintergreen, jasmine, wisteria, vanilla and lemongrass. Beneath, a core of perfectly-ripe, aromatic peach, mango, mamey. The finish is utterly smooth and long, coming to a fine dry point. Heian-kyo honors the creamy, tropical notes that are a hallmark of the local indigenous rice Iwai, meaning celebration, but elevates them. Poised, classic, built on a foundation of unflinching tradition and nobility. There are no signs of the dust and mold of aging luxury, it seems to gleam as if it always has done, for thousands of years.The name Heian-Kyo refers to the ancient name for Kyoto: a nod to the history of the brewery, which goes back to the 1600's and has seen battles for the future of Japan play out literally in their front yard. This brewery survived a bottleneck in Kyoto sake production that took the number of producers from hundreds to under 10 about 200 years ago. They are pure Kyoto, old Kyoto, noble Kyoto, Heian-Kyo: the peaceful capital that has housed Japan's imperial dynasty for over a thousand years.

This junmai daiginjo is made with highly polished Iwai rice and even more polished technique, a labor of love by a small and tight-knit team of trained craftsmen working 5AM to 6PM in the stillness of Winter, without complaint. A new generation in the family is currently being groomed to take over and has introduced many new styles to the brewery lineup, including new label designs. But Heian-Kyo remains untouched, unrevised, packaged in an attention-grabbing bright red box, the color of celebration and auspiciousness.