Chochin Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu Hattannishiki 5055 Shinbunshi (長珍酒造)

Dense and smooth, like a slippery slide of melting chocolate. Lots of tasty Hattan-nishiki truffle and cocoa powder, almond butter and oatmeal cookie... notes that go on and on. The acidity on 5055 is less pronounced, sharpness is less apparent, ringing true to its more refined style. Playful notes of maraschino liqueur and chocolate coated cherries suggest something different than its objectively dry palate and low sugar content. Overall, this sake delivers a luxurious experience more akin to falling-apart short rib braised in plums, than to sake.

It's telling that I finished my tasting note by saying: "Not sure what else to write. It tastes like addictive things". 

5055 Hattan-Nishiki desperately needs some time to air out once it’s opened. I recommend opening the bottle to expose it to oxygen, re-cap, give it a good shake to integrate the oxygen, then leave it at room temperature for 1-3 days to open up. Pop it back in the fridge from there. Chilled is great, but it’s also fantastic gently warmed or oyuwari: with hot water.  Jo Takasaki recommends leaving a small bottle (~300ml) out at room temperature in the dark for about a month to soften it before warming, if that’s your jam. Crisp notes of Dr. Pepper, elephant plum, german chocolate cake, sparkling mineral water, white pepper, ruby red grapefruit and delicate honeyed florals. An initial impression that is simultaneously sharp and dry, muscular but delicate, lean but also velvety and sweet, leading into an intensely flavorful mid-palate that fades to a weightless, persimmon-inflected finish.

Shinbunshi means newspaper wrapped, and it designates the junmai namagenshu line of Chouchin. This "design" started because he bottle enough of the namagenshu to bother printing special labels, so he just wrapped them in the local newspaper instead. This has the added benefit of protecting the sake from light, which really does ruin sake very quickly, thus allowing the sake to age gracefully. Newspaper wrapping has since been imitated by other breweries but Chouchin is the original. This bottling is “Hattan Nishiki 5055,” using Hyogo Yamadanishiki rice for the koji and Hiroshima Hattan for the remainder. This is a style and control-driven choice, as Hyogo Yamadanishiki is, among all rice in the world, the most predictable and optimal choice for koji: the primary style determinant and engine of sake. Even though koji is only 20% of the total brew, this choice allows the koji to be perfect each time…exactly how Kuwayama-san wants it. Thus, the Hattan-Nishiki dissolves and breaks down with the just-right composition and release of enzymes, thanks to the ‘perfect’ Yamadanishiki engine. There is no one right way to brew, but this choice suggests that the toji believes that optimizing the koji results in a more delicious expression than 100% Hattan Nishiki. I can hardly complain…the result is phenomenal and side by side with his 100% Yamada brews, the difference is obvious. The Hattan gives it so much cocoa-like texture.