After 18 months of planning and preparation, this one-of-a-kind, limited release collaboration between our neighbors Smith Teamaker and our good friends at Fukushima craft brewery haccoba has landed in Portland, shepherded along with a little logistics/ cheerleading support from Sunflower. The improbable combination of American-style blended sencha tea and pre-modern/post-modern Japanese sake is limited to one batch and not one you'll want to miss. 15 of 35 cases set aside for club members, 5 for Fuyu Fest, and 5 for Portland restaurants. The rest are open inventory.
July 2026 · written by Nina Murphy
View Smith Teamaker's "making of" video reel on Instagram
haccoba brews under a zasshu 雑酒(miscellaneous alcohol) license rather than a seishu (sake) one, which frees them to add extra ingredients (like tea!) to their brews. This sub-genre of alt-sake has come to be known as "craft sake." In an industry that is otherwise deeply traditional, craft sake is a special space where experimentation and collaboration are encouraged. Craft sake brewers are often inspired by craft beer: taprooms, exciting new flavors, limited releases, and a craftsmanship ethos.
Twilight Brew is a perfect example of this creative synthesis. Wild-fermented kimoto sake is brewed using local Omachi rice for a resonant, umami-rich base. After the sake is pressed, Smith Teamaker Tokyo Twilight tea is infused into the brew. After steeping at cool temperatures, a sort of sake mizudashi, the brew is gently filtered, and the golden-green liquid is bottled before being lightly pasteurized for stability.
Because the base of the brew is so well made and has so much character on its own, heating brings out a completely different side of the sake. The low ABV (10%) and moderate sweetness shine at high temperatures, around 60-80C. Particularly when heated in a copper chirori, the sharpness of the heat moderates the sweetness and lifts the tropical, pandan and pineapple notes out of the cup. We'll be saving 5 cases for Fuyu Fest 2027 to explore this aspect further, but don't let that stop you from enjoying a little natsukan either.
Of course, in Summer most folks prefer their sake chilled. Out of the refrigerator is delicious, but try it on ice, with a sparkling water back, or a little bit of sparkling water & a twist of lemon.
Sake? Not exactly. Tea? No..
Something in between, something new.
- Nina
Savory-sweet, wild-fermented kimoto sake made with 88% polish omachi rice & ambient yeast is enlivened with top-notes of lemon peel, lavender and cracked juniper, while the deep umami of Japanese sencha tea resonate on the finish. A honeyed quality hints at Read more →
Spotlights are just stuff we're really excited about!! It's one of the most common questions we get in the shop: what do you like? What's exciting right now? Spotlights are how we give our answers the light they deserve. If you want to taste along on a regular basis, I'd say about 80% of what we're excited about ends up in a club at some point or another. Read about the clubs!.
Want a heads up on spotlights like these? Our newsletter is the place, roughly once or twice a month, with a special events-only edition for locals. Join the letter.
Artwork: Nina Murphy
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