Akishika Junmai Yamahai Yamadanishiki Namagenshu "Yama"
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Made with house-grown, zero outside input (composted only with rice hulls and stalks leftover from milling) Yamadanishiki and aged at room temp (cooling only kicks in above ~90F for a few years before release, by the magicians at Akishika Shuzo in Nose, Osaka.
The label depicts a drawing of yama (mountain in Japanese), named after the Yamahai process and Yamadanishiki rice used in the sake, and was drawn by kuramoto-toji Oku-san himself. The rice is polished to 70% for depth of flavour and fermented with the strong but subtle yeast #7 for a fine acidic backbone, savory depth and long finish. Stored in the fride, you can enjoy this bottle for months once opened.
This is the most fresh-tasting and light of Akishika's export sake, even among the dry okarakuchi and jikagumi--it sits delicately on the palate, but with the same haunting earthy character we expect from Akishika, just dialed back and evoking spring fields rather than winter caves.
I quote my dear friend Sid (of Pianozake fame) because I don't think I could do a better job myself.
It's so powerfully herbal but also shows awesome savory tones, a perfume of fresh spring veggies, mushrooms cooked in butter, cantaloupe, little pictures of a garden after rain. It's dense and nutty on the palate, but with a cool, minty kind of finish that begs you to take another sip. I tried it at every temp from cold to hot- all amazing, although both extremes were the most interesting- cold was refreshing and still so complex even with the chill muting the details, and gently heating it brought out a lot more of the fruity notes, meeting the herbal and umami tones at eye level.
Rice: Yamada Nishiki
Yeast: #7
Alcohol: 17%
Polish rate: 70%
Most sake brewers buy their rice – some from contracted farmers, most from unknown sources. “From our own fields to bottle” is the motto of Akishika Shuzō, where 6th-generation kuramoto Oku Hiroaki made a decision to take the brewery as close as it gets to being self-sustained for rice production.
At present, the brewery farms 25 hectares of biodynamically grown rice, sacrificing high yields for superior quality and taste. Breaking with the production methods of postwar Japan and going against the trend of the time, Oku-san was one of the initial pioneers of junmaishu, sake made without any additives; and in 2009, he achieved the goal of the brewery’s entire production being made that way. Akishika ages a big part of their production until it reaches perfect drinking condition, allowing them to offer an unrivaled variety of matured sake.
Using their unique fermentation method of dissolving a very high portion of the fermentation rice into the brew while maintaining low amino acid levels, Akishika’s sake is medium-bodied yet very flavorful, complex, and layered.