Wednesday Lessons #42: Yamagata

WEDNESDAY LESSONS #42: YAMAGATA 11/6/2024

HATSUMAGO JUNMAI

Junmai Kimoto ($35/ 720ml) Sakata (NW Coast)

Rice: Miyamanishiki (local) Polishing: 60% SMV: 4.5, ABV: 16%, Acidity 1.9 yeast: 1401, Kimoto Temperatures: chill, room, warm

Specializing almost exclusively in very clean, classic renditions of kimoto method, Hatsumago-- ‘First Grandchild’-- is the softer brand from this brewery which also crafts Makiri. The toji has been working here since 1980, perfecting his craft.

TARUHEI GIN SUMIYOSHI

Junmai ($15/ 300ml) Kawanishi (South)

Rice: Sasanishiki (local) Polishing: 60% SMV +4.5, ABV: 16%, Acidity 1.8 yeast: 901, Sokujo moto, Fune press Temperatures: chilled, room, warm

Gin Sumiyoshi is made in a brewery that is almost entirely wooden itself, and the sake as well is only brewed with traditional wooden tools, ex. buckets, tanks, and stirrers. The sake is matured over time in old wooden tanks, adding light spice notes.

DEWAZAKURA ‘GREEN RIDGE’

Junmai Ginjo ($45/ 720ml) Tendo (Middle)

Rice: Dewasansan (local) Polishing: 50% SMV: +4 ABV: 15.5%, Acidity 1.4 yeast: YK0107, Sokujo moto Temperatures: chill, room

Highly respected in Yamagata, Dewazakura’s president regularly engages in civic leadership and is deeply committed to being a champion of Yamagata. In so many ways they refuse to hasten procedures, going as far as carrying rice up stairs..

BONUS: $4 DEWAZAKURA TSUYAHIME

Junmai Ginjo NFS- SUITCASE CARRY Tendo (Middle)

Rice: Tsuyahime eating rice (local) Polishing: 50%, SMV: N/A ABV: 15%, Acidity N/A yeast: N/A, Sokujo moto Temperatures: chill, room, warm

In addition to sake, Yamagata is also very for being a major agricultural producer in Japan. Cherries-- 70% of the nation’s total harvest-- are at the top of the list, but eating rice, particularly from the Shonai Plain, is highly regarded. This sake is made from Tsuyahime table rice, also featured on the snack plate!

AZUMA NO FUMOTO ARABASHIRI

Junmai Nama Genshu ($38/ 720ml) Nanyo (South)

Rice: Miyamanishiki (local) Polishing: 60% SMV: 0, ABV: 18%, Acidity 1.4 yeast: house, Sokujo moto Temperatures: chilled, room, warm

A relatively small and unknown brand even in Yamagata, Azuma no Fumoto comes from the small town of Nanyo, which is arguably more famous for its wineries than its sake. Azuma no Fumoto works with Yamagata University developing new products (you can try Tenkyu Suiu at Kaede!) but this Arabashiri-free run- is my favorite.

EIKO FUJI ‘WHITE SUN’

Junmai Origarami ($45/ 720ml) Tsuruoka (SW Coast)

Rice: Miyamanishiki (local) Polishing: 60% SMV: -3 ABV: 16%, Acidity 1.4 yeast: YK, Sokujo moto Temperatures: chilled

Tsuruoka is very close to the border with Niigata, and it is said that the sake produced in such areas tends to be a hybrid of its native, and neighboring, prefectures. The sake of Fuji Shuzo overall reflects this fact, but this origarami-- a rare style made with the finest sediment (lees) of brewing-- really says Yamagata cherries to me!

107 SE Washington St. #121, PDX, OR 97214 web: www.sunflowersake.com IG: @sunflowersake email: hello@sunflowersake.com

Sunflower Sake is a retail shop, tasting room, and educational center in Portland, Oregon, focusing on craft sake from around the world. Sunflower ships year-round and offers affordable, biweekly Wednesday sake classes. Thank you so much for joining us tonight!

EIKO FUJI HATSUMAGO DEWAZAKURA AZUMA NO FUMOTO TARUHEI

Printed on the sheet as #42; sequenced here by date.