Wednesday Lessons #42: Yamagata
WEDNESDAY LESSONS #42: YAMAGATA 11/6/2024
HATSUMAGO JUNMAI ($35/ 720ml)
Junmai Kimoto Sakata (NW Coast)
Rice: Miyamanishiki (local) Polishing: 60% SMV: 4.5, ABV: 16%, Acidity 1.9 yeast: 1401, Kimoto Temperatures: chill, room, warm
Specializing almost exclusively in very clean, classic renditions of kimoto method, Hatsumago-- ‘First Grandchild’-- is the softer brand from this brewery which also crafts Makiri. The toji has been working here since 1980, perfecting his craft.
TARUHEI GIN SUMIYOSHI ($15/ 300ml)
Junmai Kawanishi (South)
Rice: Sasanishiki (local) Polishing: 60% SMV +4.5, ABV: 16%, Acidity 1.8 yeast: 901, Sokujo moto, Fune press Temperatures: chilled, room, warm
Gin Sumiyoshi is made in a brewery that is almost entirely wooden itself, and the sake as well is only brewed with traditional wooden tools, ex. buckets, tanks, and stirrers. The sake is matured over time in old wooden tanks, adding light spice notes.
DEWAZAKURA ‘GREEN RIDGE’ ($45/ 720ml)
Junmai Ginjo Tendo (Middle)
Rice: Dewasansan (local) Polishing: 50% SMV: +4 ABV: 15.5%, Acidity 1.4 yeast: YK0107, Sokujo moto Temperatures: chill, room
Highly respected in Yamagata, Dewazakura’s president regularly engages in civic leadership and is deeply committed to being a champion of Yamagata. In so many ways they refuse to hasten procedures, going as far as carrying rice up stairs..
BONUS: $4
DEWAZAKURA TSUYAHIME NFS- SUITCASE CARRY
Junmai Ginjo Tendo (Middle)
Rice: Tsuyahime eating rice (local) Polishing: 50%, SMV: N/A ABV: 15%, Acidity N/A yeast: N/A, Sokujo moto Temperatures: chill, room, warm
In addition to sake, Yamagata is also very for being a major agricultural producer in Japan. Cherries-- 70% of the nation’s total harvest-- are at the top of the list, but eating rice, particularly from the Shonai Plain, is highly regarded. This sake is made from Tsuyahime table rice, also featured on the snack plate!
AZUMA NO FUMOTO ARABASHIRI ($38/ 720ml)
Junmai Nama Genshu Nanyo (South)
Rice: Miyamanishiki (local) Polishing: 60% SMV: 0, ABV: 18%, Acidity 1.4 yeast: house, Sokujo moto Temperatures: chilled, room, warm
A relatively small and unknown brand even in Yamagata, Azuma no Fumoto comes from the small town of Nanyo, which is arguably more famous for its wineries than its sake. Azuma no Fumoto works with Yamagata University developing new products (you can try Tenkyu Suiu at Kaede!) but this Arabashiri-free run- is my favorite.
EIKO FUJI ‘WHITE SUN’ ($45/ 720ml)
Junmai Origarami Tsuruoka (SW Coast)
Rice: Miyamanishiki (local) Polishing: 60% SMV: -3 ABV: 16%, Acidity 1.4 yeast: YK, Sokujo moto Temperatures: chilled
Tsuruoka is very close to the border with Niigata, and it is said that the sake produced in such areas tends to be a hybrid of its native, and neighboring, prefectures. The sake of Fuji Shuzo overall reflects this fact, but this origarami-- a rare style made with the finest sediment (lees) of brewing-- really says Yamagata cherries to me!
Printed on the sheet as #42; sequenced here by date.
