Wednesday Lessons #23: Aged Sake & Sake Aging

WEDNESDAY LESSONS #23: AGED SAKE & SAKE AGING

11/29/23

SAKE 1

ΤΕΝΜΕΙ [?: TENMEI] Junmai Ginjo Namachozo (2y) Bottle (720ml): $39 ($44) Fukushima, Japan Rice: Yamadanishiki Polishing: 55% Yeast: #9, Fukushima Akira Kobo SMV: +2, acidity 1.6 Starter: sokujo, ABV 15%

Akebono Shuzo, a humble brewery which has been making a name for itself in pairing- focused restaurants in Tokyo and Kyoto, is located in the mountian valley of Aizubange, the northern portion of the Aizu region in Fukushima Prefecture. The valley's rice cultivation is the crux of their economy, and in order to reflect the locality of the region they use 100% local sake rice. The brewery is dedicated to small details and brewery cleanliness (all equipment is hand cleaned and dried at high temperatures - any cloth used in the machines is boiled) which results in a very distinct style: clarity, purity, and subtlety. This is a rare example of a Namachozo sake, one which is aged as a namazake for a year, then flash pasteurized to ship. The result is firm, clean, crisp, but with elegant detailed spice notes and a dry (but not too dry) finish.

SAKE 2

YUHO "Rhythm of Centuries" Junmai Bottle (720ml): $31 ($36) Mioya Shuzo Ishikawa, Japan Noto Hikari (local) Polishing: 55% Yeast: #901 SMV: +3, acidity 2.2 Starter: kimoto, ABV: 15%

Unapologetically unconventional, Mioya experiments with brewing components and techniques to produce fairly dry sake that have a wild, gamey quality with pronounced acidity. President Miho Fujita, a former career woman from Tokyo with no prior knowledge of sake, and Toji Yokomichi, who left his corporate job to pursue sake, brew the sake they enjoy drinking: umami rich, comforting, great with junk food. Miho believes her sake can stay open for longer than most-she personally likes to drink them after being open for 1-2 months. In addition, stored outside of light, they continue to evolve and improve in bottle over time.

"Old" bottles of Yuho are often better than they were on original release, but keep in mind that as the amino acids aggregate, you may see floaties-- totally ok!

SAKE 3

KENBISHI "KUROMATSU" Honjozo (~1-2y) Bottle (900ml): $40 ($45) Nada, Kobe, Japan Rice: Yamadanishiki(Toku A), Aiyama Medium hard "Miyamizu" water Polishing: -70% (blend) Yeast: Propietary SMV: +1, acidity 1.7 Starter: yamahai, ABV: 17%

SAKE 4

KENBISHI "MIZUHO" Junmai (-2-8y) Bottle (720ml): $44 ($49) Polishing: blend SMV: 0, acidity 1.7 Starter: Yamahai, ABV: 17%

SAKE 5 BONUS

KENBISHI "ZUISHO" Junmai Genshu (~5-15y) Bottle (900ml): $90 ($100) Rice: Yamadanishiki(Toku A) Polishing: blend SMV: +0.5, acidity 2.2 Starter: Yamahai, ABV: 18%

Established 1505, Kenbishi is a cultural stalwart committed to the, "a stopped clock is correct twice a day" philosophy. Their brewery has a Willy Wonka mystery about it, with an in- house cooperage (woodworking facility), mythical rice, and a team of master blenders executing their timeless range of blended, aged styles.

SAKE 6

TEDORIGAWA "UMEMAIKA 96" Junmai Daiginjo Koshu (28y) Not for sale Ishikawa, Japan Rice: Yamadanishiki (Hyogo) Polishing: 45% Yeast: #77 (Malosan) Starter: sokujo, ABV 13% Medium-hard GI Hakusan water

Tedorigawa, the small brewery made famous by the documentary The Birth of Sake, is a mainstay at Sunflower. Known for their fresh, crisp, minerality-leading sake, Umekaika is an anomaly in the brand portfolio and a relic from the former toji, who retired in 2018. Umekaika is brewed using the malic acid yeast #77 (also used in the 3y aged Hiraizumi #77, or Nishide Moromi with the two cats on it) and tends to be popular as it brews with elevated acidity, sharper (malic) acidity, and lower alcohol than other yeasts. In this junmai daiginjo, Tedorigawa uses top- quality Hyogo Yamadanishiki rice and ages in (cool, but not refrigerated) conditions. This 1996 production was released in 2022. Tedorigawa isn't known for koshu at all, and this is only the second release of the brew (first was 1994)-- it represents a tiny glimpse into the experimental role of koshu at most breweries.

SAKE 7

MASUIZUMI "BARREL AGING" Kijoshu Genshu Bottle (720ml): $45 ($50) Toyama, Japan Details undisclosed, presumed 2014 ABV 14.5%

Kijoshu is made by incorporating sake instead of water during the last step of fermentation, lending a sweeter, richer, and more concentrated flavor, similar to noble rot wine. This product is a rare Kijoshu- style sake aged in oak barrels giving it more complexity and depth than regular Kijoshu. In 2023, it was recognized by the International Wine Competition with a silver medal in the koshu category, also revealing the vintage as a 2014-15 blend. In Japan, Masuizumi has expanded this line (an immediate success) by collaborating with specific domaines and chateaus, such as Henri Giraud (Ay, Champagne), and Domaine Ramonet (Chassagne- Montrachet, Burgundy). Delicious as is, with chocolate, honey-drizzled cheese or Panettone, or transform it into a old fashioned with an orange peel and bitters. Since this sake is stored and aged in oak barrels, there may be some sediment from the barrel-- be mindful when decanting.

SUNFLOWER SAKE

Sunflower Sake is a retail shop, tasting room, and educational center in Portland, Oregon, focusing on craft sake from around the world. Sunflower ships year-round and offers affordable, biweekly Wednesday sake classes. Thank you so much for joining us tonight!

107 SE Washington St. #121, Portland, OR 97214 web: www.sunflowersake.com IG: @sunflowersake email: nina@sunflowersake.com

Printed on the sheet as #23; sequenced here by date.