AUG 25: Kohro Ryo & Daisekkei Natsuzake- Late-Summer Goodies

SUNFLOWER SAKE CLUB: AUGUST 2025
JUST SOME NICE NATSUZAKE GOODIES

Kohro “Ryo” Junmai Namazume Natsuzake

Ryo Junmai is the Summer release from Kumamotoken Shuzokenkyusho, or in English, Kumamoto Prefecture Sake Brewery and Research Co. Why the mouthful of a name? The company was originally established in 1909 as a government research lab to improve the quality and taste of Kumamoto sake.

Until the late 1800’s, the only sake produced in Kumamoto was akazake, a red (aka) sake made by mixing ash into the main mash. The ash interacted with the sake, producing a red color and preventing spoilage in Kumamoto’s warm climate. Around the turn of the century, Dr. Nojiro Kinichi was assigned to Kumamoto’s tax bureau as a brewing instructor. It was his job to travel around Kumamoto instructing akazake brewers on the production of clear sake. Clear sake was more marketable and for the tax bureau’s part, could earn higher tax revenues.

By 1909, enough interest emerged among local brewers for a dedicated research institute to explore new methods of brewing high quality, delicious sake in Kumamoto’s warm climate. And so, Kumamotoken Shuzokenkyusho was born! The brewery/research institute began brewing in earnest in 1923, and soon enough Kumamoto prefecture was a force to be reckoned with at tasting contests. Among other innovations, easily Kumamoto Kenkyusho’s most iconic contribution to the sake world is Kumamoto Kobo, aka yeast #9, which was isolated from their brewery equipment in the early 50s. It’s known for its gorgeous ginjo aroma and stable brewing, and is the most popular yeast variety to this day. 

Like everything else produced by them, Ryo is made with the brewery’s own Kumamoto Kobo. While Kumamoto Kobo is the OG ginjo yeast, Ryo’s profile leans into a water-like, refreshing vibe more suitable for sipping in the Summer heat, which reflects the yeast’s versatility and adaptability. The rice used for the main mash is Shunyo, a table rice from Niigata that was originally bred for medical diets. Its low protein and easy digestibility that made it suitable for patients dealing with renal failure also make it an ideal sake brewing rice! Among sake rice, Shunyo uniquely contains a compound called 4MMP, which is responsible for muscat and lychee-like aromas found in Sauv Blanc and some varieties of hops.

Tasting notes
I get notes of Japanese milk pudding, banana, Nik-L-Nips (are those even still around?), and just the suggestion of white peach. While the 4MMP isn’t as obvious here as it is in the Koueigiku Harujion namazake for instance, I feel like that super-light body reflects its low amino acid content.

Pairing

For pairing, I found it incredibly versatile with food. For both of these August sake the inclination is to lean towards light, summery fare like ume shiso chicken, summer rolls, hiyayakko, or a simple namul. But I found that the sake did such a good job with food, I hardly drank any by itself, always preferring the way it improved with a few nibbles. When Molly shared a plate of home-cooked Hawaiian food (teriyaki chicken, rice with furikake, macaroni salad and coleslaw) I felt like the Ryo was practically made for it. The light sweetness in the chicken, the rich creamy macaroni salad, the summery shoyu vibes. So good.

Data

• Founded 1909
• Location: Kumamoto city, Kumamoto prefecture
• Rice: Shunyo (kake), Hananishiki from Kumamoto (koji)
• Polish: 65%, 58%
• Yeast: Kumamoto Kobo
• SMV: -4
• Acidity: 1.4
• Amino: .6
• ABV: 14%
• Pasteurization: Once in bottle

Daisekkei Junmai Ginjo Namazume OR Daisekkei Junmai Ginjo Usunigori Nama

As everyone knows, I (Nina writing here– Molly did the writeup for Ryo ^) have a special thing for Nagano. It’s my favorite prefecture: the one I could really see myself in. Like Oregon, you’ve got gorgeous mountains, elevation and relatively cooler temperatures…a fertile and lush valley, great skiing/snow, tons of rivers and rich history/culture, as well as fantastic wine, agriculture and of course, sake. You’ve enjoyed Kisoji namazake recently in a club set (I believe that was April), Masumi once or twice, but this will be a first for Daisekkei, which fits the bill perfectly for our August nomiyasui (easy drinking) vibe. Daisekkei Shuzo is located in the small town of Ikeda, a few stations up from Matsumoto, famous for its black castle (and small airport), and a few stations down from Hakuba, famous for its skiing/mountaineering.

The first 20 recipients (including all shipments) will receive the single-pasteurized, clear namazume junmai ginjo from Daisekkei and the remaining couple subscribers will receive the hazy unpasteurized nama-nama from Daisekkei, both of which are Summer seasonals.  When I originally pre-ordered these from our importer in February, I didn’t expect this little club to grow as it has!

I’ve always loved Daisekkei, and I seek it out when I visit Nagano. It has a uniquely crisp, minerally- astringent flavor profile that evokes the incredible mountain scenery around the brewery. A customer once described their winter nama as tasting like iceplant or sea bean, a succulent plant coastal residents will recognize as it lines American coastlines from Mexico to Canada. The plant can survive the coast by absorbing seawater and storing the excess salt and minerals in its juicy blades. Some versions of this plant will also “perspire” salt to the surface of the plant for it to wash away. When you put your tongue on the fleshy cut blade/”leaf”, it draws moisture, but is minerally and juicy at the same time. To me this is a bit like Daisekkei.

The brewery is named for one of the most famous paths up mount Shirouma, which lies just to the north and is part of the Japan alps complex. Daisekkei is also called the Hakuba Snowy Gorge route, and is considered the shortest and easiest of the paths to the the top of Shirouma. Due to low snow and high temperatures the path has been off limits in recent years, as one of the main features is a ~1 mile traverse across a high elevation snowfield. On the other side of the snowfield lies an incredible field of flowers, and soon after, a well-appointed mountain resort just below the summit, where you can spend the night and enjoy a nice cool sake against sunset views. It’s definitely one for the bucket list.

It was founded in 1898, around the time when thousands of new breweries were popping up due to the government’s liberalization of brewing licenses. It was only natural to start a brewery here: among the many remote valleys of Nagano there’s a need for local sake, as famous brands from Nada and Fushimi had much too far to travel to reach these distant markets, and Nagano already has its own abundant brewing resources.  Beneath the silvery peaks of the Northern Alps, in the vast grain-producing region of Azumino crossed with abundant spring water, what was originally named Ikeda Brewing Limited Partnership Company made Seikozakura brand, but after the war the name was changed to Daisekkei, in honor of the natural environment. In 1953, Daisekkei sake won top prize at the most prestigious national sake competition and was selected to be presented to the Imperial Household.  The calligraphy style was created by Oka Fumoto, an Araragi school poet with ties to the brewery. Oka Fumoto was a disciple of Masaoka Shiki and the teacher of an early brewery president, Usui Kazuo. The calligraphic brand mark "Daisekkei" was written by Oka at the Usui family home, where he passed away. The gorgeous historic home and gardens have actually been renovated for enjoyment by anyone who visits the brewery, to taste and enjoy the incredible scenery.

Since its establishment, Daisekkei has been a well respected local brand, fairly widely distributed by the Japan Meimonshu Kai but at its core a jizake (local sake). They continue to win awards, particularly for their futsushu, which they put a lot of pride into. The 6th generation daughter and president Erika Usui says that “we really focus on perfecting our futsushu. I want our customers to enjoy affordable sake every night, something well made that you can appreciate. Even with cheap sake at a low price point, we use good local sake rice, polish it firmly, and make it with meticulous care. For me, this is the happiest award I could receive.” Erika is the youngest of four sisters, and assumed the role of president on Nihonshu no Hi, Sake Day, 10/1/2023. The eldest daughter originally took over management, but her marriage took her away from Nagano, and Erika– who had been in food science until then– volunteered to step in. In an interview she really emphasized that 90% of their sake is consumed by locals, and that the style of Daisekkei is truly honed in on what locals enjoy: not her own tastes or the toji’s tastes, but the locals of Azumino.

Tasting notes (single pasteurized junmai ginjo):

This Summer release Junmai Ginjo is brewed with Nagano grown Miyama Nishiki rice and pasteurized once in bottle. It's by far the lightest and most minerally-crisp of the natsuzake this year... almost nothing on the nose besides the smell of a mountain meadow's flowing waters, while the palate is this perplexing, subtle yet complex mix of raw pumpkin, goya (aka bitter melon), granite (ever gone backpacking in the Sierra Nevada range and filtered yourself some water from a mountain stream?)...Dry, a little salty, a little minty, lemongrass... with a wave of umami on the finish. Superbly refreshing and lovely. Definitely one of my favorites this year.

Tasting notes (nama usunigori junmai ginjo):

While each bottle seems to vary a bit depending on how much lees (cloudiness) is in it, I get soft notes of vanilla, lemon meringue, corn pudding and Mexican wedding cookies. The palate begins on day one with lots of CO2 trapped in the bottle, giving it a zingy lemony edge and sharp mineral brightness, with deep bass notes of meringue. Some spicy, minerally notes also come through that remind me of aloe vera, spearmint, black licorice, plain lacroix and pear. 

After a few days, once the CO2 has fizzled out, you land on a profile with nice richness and a longer than average finish, plus just a tiny bit of powdery texture from the rice particulate.

Pairing:

For pairing on either of the Daisekkei natsuzake, I’d lean towards light, summery fare like ume shiso chicken, summer rolls, hiyayakko, or a simple namul. The crisp saltiness matches well with similarly light food.

Data: 

• Brewery: Daisekkei Shuzo,  大雪渓
• Est. 1898
• Location: Ikeda, Nagano Prefecture
• Rice: Miyama Nishiki
• Polish: 59%
• Yeast: Association #701 and #1001
• SMV: +3
• Acidity: 1.7
• ABV: 15%
• Pasteurization: Once in bottle